Fall
harvest time was never very busy at Maesariang Hospital in
northwestern Thailand. Patients don't want to leave their fields
unless they are practically dying. Seeing some of the refugee horror
stories in the Bangkok newspapers, and having time on our hands, we
wrote a letter to the mission refugee committee, offering some time
if they needed us. A telegram from committee member Pat Coats asked
for as many as possible to come right away to work at the Cambodian
border, 500 miles to the southeast.
Half
the hospital wanted to go, but of course our hospital in Maesariang
had to be kept running too. Five of us finally went, Rosa, a Puerto
Rican nurse; Mala, a Karen nurse; Weena, a Karen aide; and my wife,
Lois and myself. We got the telegram October 25 and were on our way
next morning, taking the bus to Chiangmai, and the overnight train to
Bangkok.
We
would be on loan to CAMA services, Inc., the service arm of the
Christian and Missionary Alliance mission, which has long worked in
Cambodia. We drove over to their offices to meet our co-workers and
learned that the Thai military had just opened a large refugee center
at Sa Kaew. The International Red Cross had set up a hospital there
with several hastily gathered medical teams. CAMA had a permanent
medical team forming in the Netherlands, but it would not arrive for
two weeks.
Some
of their workers had helped in the search for refugee groups along
the border near the Thai border town of Aranyaprathet,and reported
thousands scattered here and there in the bush, many dying or too
weak to walk. They were being moved back away from the border to cut
the risk of hot pursuit into Thai territory by the advancing
Vietnamese army tanks. These refugees were mostly people pressed into
service by the Khmer Rouge, whose army remnants were backed up
against the Cambodian forest border with Thailand.
It's
a three-hour drive by mini-bus from Bangkok to Sa Kaew; good highway
through farm country, where the pervasive vinegar-like smell of the
drying tapioca crop permeated the air. Our guide said we might as
well stop at the camp before going on to our living quarters in Sa
Kaew town, ten miles further on, so we pulled off on a dirt
side-road, where armed guards checked all traffic, and handed out
passes for those authorized to enter the camp.
Our
first impression was of barbed wire and mud. The camp was only in its
fourth day of operation, bulldozed out of swampy rice fields,
sheltering about 30,000 black-clad people behind a fence. We had to
step from grass hummock to tree root to get around. At one point,
Lois had to reach elbow-deep into the mud to retrieve a shoe.
The
hospital area was on slightly higher ground but otherwise chaotic. We
were introduced to someone who said, “Fine, go to work in that tent
over there.” We had been up since 5 am, some of the girls needed a
toilet, and we hadn't even seen where we were supposed to lodge. But the
word was “Work a little now, so you'll know the problems by
tomorrow.”
I
entered the indicated tent, where a harried-looking doctor was
carrying a large cardboard box. Motionless patients lay every
whichway on bamboo mats on the mud floor. We had to duck to avoid the
bamboo cross-pieces in the tent frame. His box contained a jumble of
paper cups of pills, syringes, bottles of liquids, bags of
intravenous fluids, six-by-eight inch cards and so forth. The first
thing that happened was the bottom dropped out of the box and
everything slid among the patients. I went to find another box,
finally dumping some bottles out of a carton I found in a supply
tent. A patient needed a shot. I borrowed one from the more organized
tent next door. The doctor himself had only started work that
morning. Two Red Cross doctors had already quit after working only two days.
He looked at another patient. “The A on his arm means he's been
given ampicillin. We'll give him another shot of it now.”
“That's
an every-six-hour drug,” I said, “Who gives it at night when
we're gone?”
“Nobody.”
Most
of my three-hour stint that afternoon was spent looking for things.
The doctors in the far tent spoke French. The British lady presiding
over a card table full of medicines in Tent No. 1 was having enough
trouble supplying her own patients, so I hunted among the unattended
supply tents. I began to get dizzy every time I stood up. The heat
was oppressve, and I was wet with sweat. The other members of our team
were presumably off with other doctors. Several dead bodies, rolled
up in the mats on which they'd lain, were in a row between the tents.
No one paid them much attention. It began to rain lightly.
At
dusk, our guide found us and told us to round up and move on. I found
Lois way over in the orphans' tents, following a doctor with no more
idea than I where to find the medicines he was ordering. Then the
word word went through the hospital, “They're unloading another
convoy. Come and help!”
Out
on the road we stood in back of several large Thai army trucks, helping
down emaciated people who couldn't have weighed more than sixty
pounds apiece. Most needed help to walk, and held on to small bundles or
cooking pots. Several husky young volunteers scrambled up into the
truck to hand down a half dozen people who made no effort to move. Some
felt very hot to the touch. I found myself trying to hoist the
mid-section of a rather large unconscious man onto a piece of
cardboard. Four of us struggled through the mud to the fence and pushed apart
two strands of barbed wire to hand him through to volunteers inside.
We
were all bone-tired on the 10-mile ride into town. I admired the two
Red Cross doctors who had managed to last two whole days. We got
Chinese food at a restauurant, and finally arrived at the house
rented for us by CAMA. A lady introduced herself as Winnie, and said
there was plenty of bath water and clean beds ready, dormitory style.
It was Winnie, and later her husband and Aree the cook, who made life
possible during those next two weeks. Other teams told us later about
their grungy hotel rooms and worse food, and coming home too tired to
fix any dinner, but after our second day we always had a hot meal
waiting.
Up
next morning at sunrise. Our team leader, Bob Jono, told us we would
have our own newly established tent to work in today. Remembering the
disorganization of the day before, we stopped in town to buy a couple
of folding card tables, plastic baskets, cups and tea kettles to
carry water in, and five-gallon cans to carry it from the camp's water
tanks.
We
looked like we were on safari, moving through the hospital gate. On
subsequent days we also carried cases of pop and big containers of
crushed ice to combat the heat exhaustion we had felt the first day.
To Be Continued
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